JONATHAN SAUNDERS FOR LYLE & SCOTT
At a time when Scottish affairs dominate the UK newspapers an all-Scottish menswear partnership appears very timely. But the Lyle & Scott by Jonathan Saunders collection is not a political animal, instead it is part of a series of collaborations to commemorate the historic Scottish brand’s 140-year anniversary.
Saunders is known for his bold use of colour and pattern (a quick look at his AW14 collection confirms this), which meshes nicely with Lyle & Scott’s golfing heritage.
Tiger Woods once said that “golf is a sport for white men dressed like black pimps”. It is certainly true that players of the sport often feel the need to pre-empt accusations of dullness with eccentric outfit choices. Consequently, the golfing world is full of garish colour combinations and ludicrous clashes in print and pattern.
Fortunately, Saunders brings his keen designer’s eye to this collection, deftly walking the tightrope of taste to create a series of argyle knits and polka-dot polo shirts that artfully play with colour combinations and draw on intelligent references. “I was really inspired by Peter Saville’s artworks and traditional iconography that was translated in a sort of op-art way,” Saunders said in conversation with The Independent.
This video demonstrates the anarchic approach to pattern that the designer advocates. Indeed, for Saunders, Lyle & Scott doesn’t represent golf-course conformity but a sense of youthful rebellion.
“Lyle & Scott always suggested a reference to the indie scene – think Ian Brown and Damon Albarn, and of course I wore it too” he said. “It’s such an iconic Scottish brand, which was something I wanted to channel when creating the collection. To me, Scotland signifies industry, work ethic and innovation – I’m clearly patriotic!”
A patriot after all! Then perhaps this collection does contain a subtle political message. Although Saunders’ approach to colour and pattern could be described as “better together”, he is keen to point out that an all-Scottish collaboration can be an independent success.